“That we leave our homes, that we step through our doors to the world, that we travel our whole lives not because we want to collect exotic T-shirts, not because we want to consume foreign adventure the same Western way we consume plastic and Styrofoam and LCD TVs and iPads, but because it has the power to renew us—not the guarantee, not the promise, just the possibility. Because there are places our imaginations can never construct for us, and there are people who we will never meet but we could and we might. It reminds us that there is always reason to begin again.” - Stephen Markley, Tales of Iceland or "Running with the Huldufólk in the Permanent Daylight"
I am currently flying over the eastern edge of northern Canada finally ready to put my thoughts from the last few days on the page. I dislike goodbyes...like really really dislike them. I get emotionally exhausted and withdrawn by them and this as no exception. I had a very funny moment in the staffroom before school began the other day. A math text was sitting on the table, the title incorporated the label “1B”. Ok, the grade 1 math book, excellent! I started to get wide-eyed as I flipped through the pages looking at complex graphs and word problems thinking to myself “oh my gosh...this is pretty darn advanced for grade 1”. Thank goodness for the staff member sitting beside me...when I asked “this is for grade 1???” She laughed aloud and said “No, the title says Math for teenagers...this is for grade 8!” Since then I have shared that story with many other staff members, all with the same light-hearted laugh. Making sense of things in a language you don’t know is exhausting! I’ve never needed so many afternoon naps in my life! Saying goodbye to the students and staff at Brekku was hard on the heart but saying goodbye to my Icelandic family was heartbreaking. My tears started in the doorway at home and came in waves throughout the morning. The only way I was able to get through security after hugging Dadda goodbye was confirming our plan to spend some time together in the summer of 2020. It will be then that she and Dori make their way to Calgary to spend time with us again...all of us together. Thank you Dori, our chef and comedian, the bringer of laughs and levity. I will miss our conversations so much! Hjordis, your room looks amazing and I do hope you will see yourself as we do soon...as someone destined to work in the field of service. We need soccer-playing, compassionate nurses like you girl! On Thursday evening I was treated to an amazing ladies only dinner party with some of the admin team from Brekku. Canadian flags and pins adorning the table and lobster two ways, the conversation was honest and full of head-back-belly-full-heart-light laughter. Near the end of the evening talk turned to the work we do on behalf of families and students. Thousands of miles may separate us but the commitment we feel to this work is the very same. Self-regulation strategies, individualized programming, outside agency supports...these are at the heart of our days regardless of setting. I learned a lot in the company of these amazing women and am grateful to have spent time alongside them these past two weeks. On my last night in Akranes we feasted on reindeer and roast vegetables! It was so delicious and made even more sweet by the giggles and antics of our youngest guests Valur and Binni. I will miss those little dudes and appreciated an opportunity to spend one more evening with them and Gisli. I am sorry not to have been able to say goodbye to Gunnsa but will think of her every time I listen to the CD of her fiddle group she gifted me. Celtic-Icelandic fiddle tunes - just perfect for driving to work!! My last day in Iceland held one more family celebration, this time a birthday party for Dadda’s nephew! Two of the party goers met me at the door and exclaimed “I’ve read your blog!” I was so surprised, and honoured, they would spend time reading all about my Canadian craziness! I should almost have a disclaimer at the beginning of it - WARNING some stories within not for the faint of heart! ;O)
Driving through Reykjanes to the Keflavik airport is much like driving through a Martian landscape. The lava fields are a foreign landscape outside of Iceland and, despite being here for two weeks, still feel very odd to my eyes. Our usual chatter was much more subdued the closer to the airport we drove. As wonderful and exciting as this experience has been, I know the true impact of it will drift over me in the coming days and weeks. I hope more people decide to participate in the opportunity for exchange. There is something quite powerful about stepping outside one’s comfort zone and looking up and out at the view before you while in a new place. It is exhausting, and heart-wrenching, humbling and oft times hilarious but it is also an experience that epitomizes growth. I know I am not the person I was when I left for Iceland...and I am grateful for that. Thank you for following alongside me, for laughing with me, and for giving me strength when I needed it most. I feel it most appropriate to come full circle and end with the quote that began this journey for me… “That we leave our homes, that we step through our doors to the world, that we travel our whole lives not because we want to collect exotic T-shirts, not because we want to consume foreign adventure the same Western way we consume plastic and Styrofoam and LCD TVs and iPads, but because it has the power to renew us—not the guarantee, not the promise, just the possibility. Because there are places our imaginations can never construct for us, and there are people who we will never meet but we could and we might. It reminds us that there is always reason to begin again.” - Stephen Markley, Tales of Iceland or "Running with the Huldufólk in the Permanent Daylight"
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Dadda and I took advantage of the amazing weather on Tuesday evening and went down to Reykjavik to walk around downtown and see the touristy sites. Imagine my surprise when, with hot coffee in hand, I spotted the giant Canada Goose poster on one of the main streets. "Wait a sec...I'M A CANADA GOOSE!" I couldn't help myself and take this picture, surprised to see a symbol from home so far away. It amazes me how many people ask me how I like the cold here....ummmm yeah, its not cold here! It was -38 two weeks before I left! If Canada Goose jackets are the way to go here it is because of the wind and rain NOT the cold! I managed just fine in my winter shell, toque and gloves but took the advice about dressing in layers to heart. I may be Canadian but I don't LIKE being cold! I was intrigued by the colourful doors I spotted all along the main shopping district. This is remniscent of our road trip to Nova Scotia and PEI in 2014. I loved seeing the bright entryways beckoning the pedestrians in to shop, eat or grab a coffee. We stopped by city hall and spotted the famous Unknown Bureaucrat sculpture by Magnús Tómasson. It was perfect timing as no one was lingering about in the background. The duck pond leading up to city hall is full of all kinds of birds, no rubber chickens though, so I snapped this picture for my bird-lover Zane. Now most of you know I have a terrible stomach. My culinary bravery is limited not by a lack of adventure but of digestive distress. I had hoped to try shark, I really did, but I don't think it is something I can manage at this point. When I saw this sign I laughed...during our drive around Snaefellsnes Dorí explained to me that everywhere else in the world people got eaten by sharks but in Iceland, as you are a viking, you are the ones eating them! Sinnep is the world famous Icelandic hot dog sauce! Just before leaving Canada I asked my boys what they anted me to bring back for them. After Dramur chocolate and Djúpur candies "HOT DOG SAUCE" was next on their list. Never fear boys, I have some in my suitcase for you!
Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran parish church in Reykjavík, Iceland. At 74.5 metres high, it is the largest church in Iceland and among the tallest structures in the country. The church is named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Pétursson, author of the Passion Hymns. You can see this against the skyline all the way in Akranes and it has become a symbol of Reykjavik all over the world. Although we didn't go inside, the sheer enormity of it can be felt peering up, up, waaaaaay up (for all you CBC fans) to capture the steeple and the statue in one shot. As we were leaving to go pick up our amazing Thai food from Ban Thai, I was excited to hear the bells chime for 7:00pm. Last but not least is the Sun Voyager sculpture. This very large steel structure is a gem of the harbour swarming with tourists day and night. I happened to jump out of the car at just the right moment to snap this pic. I have another shot from the side but it does not capture the beauty of the mountains in the background. There is something pure and crystalline about seeing steel against snow and a bright blue sky. No photoshop here folks, this is the real, unedited, deal. Just two more days here and I am already dreading the goodbye. I am excited to see my crew again of course, I am sure Dave is in desperate need fo some sleep, but I will be sad to say goodbye here. You know that feeling, the one where you walk into a new place but somehow feel as though you have been there before? That is what it felt like to be in Kindergarten yesterday! KG here is separate from elementary school. Much like our preschool programs, kids are sorted by age and development but the focus on play-based learning feels a lot like it does at home. I peeked into one room and the kids were gathered round the big blocks, a daily fav for our students, building Hogwarts and casting spells. The teacher explained that the have to rotate these blocks to each of the three classes each month and when the kids came in the other day they were SOOOOO excited to have them back in their room. Big blocks....the universal KG centre! I spent the rest of my morning learning about the nation-wide KG curriculum. The focus on developing the whole child through health and wellbeing, literacy, creativity, independence and compassion. It was really wonderful to see how this lives out at the Akrasel Kindergarten here in Akranes. Next it was time for the big celebration of learning called árshátíð! This whole school celebration was a highlight as I had an up close and personal view of viking rock and roll and Grease! Can I just say that "Summer Lovin'" sounds just the same in Icelandic as it does in English! My favourite part of the show were the English tourists. Not only was it the only part I could really understand but they were hilarious. "I wanted to go to Spain but NOOOOO you wanted to go to ICEland!" I laughed and laughed at their antics....and wondered how many people in the audience thought I was just like them! ;O) On Tuesday we were able to meet briefly with the head of the Icelandic Principal's union, Thorstein, the man that matched Dadda and I, along with the two other school-based leaders in this exchange. Brynhildur (Bryn) is a principal in Reykjavik and Melanie is her counterpart from Grande Prairie. (The third pair of Team Vicanuck, Asta and Bonnie, don't begin their exchange here until Easter break.) We spoke about the adventures, the funny moments, and powerful connections we have made here over the course of this exchange process. If we had stayed in hotels and only had work as the common thread the exchange would have been great...but not as deeply transformative as it has been. To live in someone's house, to sit at their dinner table each night and discuss what you saw, or felt, or grappled with that day...it is something else entirely. In fact, I would say I have felt more like I live in Akranes much more than being a mere visitor these past few weeks. I joke with my new red-headed teenage daughter, Hjördís, like she has been a part of my family forever. Dori, my driver and chef extraordinaire has brought a lot of levity and laughter to our long days. "Well Aubrey, there are many birds living in Arnarstapi, but I don't think anyone has ever seen THAT exotic bird!" (as he points to Tommy snickering.) Gisli and Gunnthorunn, Valur and Binni have all been warm and kind additions to my Icelandic family. Spending time with two young boys like these two has brought my heart and memory back to my own two guys when they were little. With Cai in middle school and Zane contemplating universities away from home it was a nice reminder to take time for the little things while they are still living with Dave and I. As with most things, transformative experiences are truly about the people. The places you go, the things you do, the adventures you have are all really amazing...but the people with whom you have shared your experience, your reflections, and your heart - those are the pieces that stay with you forever. I am so grateful to have been placed in the care of such amazing people here in Akranes. Monday morning offered the pleasure of meeting with Ruth and Bryndis at the leisure centre located in the equivalent a CBE area office. This centre offers parks and recreation style programming for students right after school up until fairly late into the evening. It was here we discussed the endless opportunities for inclusion within both a formal (school) and informal (leisure) setting. Ruth was a driving force behind the action research that defines what inclusion now looks like in Iceland. Knowing that “special settings” where students with diverse abilities are sequestered away from the mainstream programs did not serve them well in both school and life outside it. She pushed for, and ultimately changed, the ways services are offered for all students here in Akranes and beyond. It was inspiring to hear of her work and I believe I will use her acronym IDEA wherever I can. Inclusion, Diversity and Equity for All. Bryndis now leads the rec team and her passion for mentorship, child-centred voice and agency can be felt from the moment she starts to speak. We shared ideas about design-thinking, using our grade 3 mini golf course as the vehicle. She loved how our students worked through the design-thinking process to prototype, test and ultimately create a fully functioning mini golf course. Our catwalks project also got a lot of airtime as we spoke, as a group, about the importance of service learning and giving back to one’s community. The feelings of community, of connection and equity was alive and well during this conversation. I found myself among people that see the world much like I do - as full of possibilities and hope but needing a strong voice to take the road less travelled so that we can accomplish things not done before. Think beyond what is in front of you to change what remains there. My head, and heart, were very full by lunch. Last evening we participating in what has fast become a favourite activity for Dadda and I - AN ART CLASS! Picture a beautiful old bakery converted into a clay bakery...wood floors, clean lines and lots and lots of clay! We tried our hands at pinch pots first then threw a couple of bowls/vases/mug-like pieces on the wheel. It was a very focused effort until the sounds of Unchained Melody came blaring through the speakers. At that point we got the giggles and waited for the ghost of Patrick Swayze to come waltzing through the doors. Pun 100% intended… Although we have conceded that becoming world-famous (or even profitable) artists is likely not in the post-retirement future for either of us we sure did have a wonderful time. Thank you to Kolla and Maja Stina for opening their studio doors to us and encouraging our particular brand of kookiness! This weekend we had the PERFECT weather for exploring Snaefellsnes, the “hand” of Iceland as the children call it. This peninsula is often referred to as Iceland in miniature. In a small area you can see glaciers, volcanoes, waterfalls and geothermal springs... it is breathtaking. We started the morning by stopping and walking around Arnarstapi. This village by the sea was a perfect place to break out Tommy and let him fly. Being a visitor, not everyone knows my particular brand of crazy so I have been reluctant to let him out to play but not so this weekend! Arnarstapi is home to a rather large colony of arctic tern and you can sure appreciate them up close and personal here. There is also a sculpture of Bardur Snaefellsas by Ragnar Kjartansson, the guardian of the glacier of Snaefell and tribute to one of Iceland`s famous sagas. It feels like Icelæand`s version of an inuksuk. From there we spent the day hopping in and out of the car. Londrangar and Malariff were next! Londrangar is a uniquely-formed remnant of ancient basalt volcanic dikes sticking out from the sea. Londrangar and the hill Svalthufa are the remains of a crater, which has been eroded to its present form by the sea. The farmers in the area never made or make hay on the hill, because it is said to belong to the elves living in the area. (Thank you Google!) How many of you know that when I travel a beach I often look down and spot a heart-shaped rock. Thus was the case with our next stop but I wish it had been bigger. I am not sure how I am going to fit “Djúpalónssandur” on this rock! This site held a beautiful black sand beach, the ruins of an old shipwreck and a set of strong man rocks bored fisherman used to move from A to B when they were testing their strength. Needless to say, I am no viking and would die at see at the first requirement for strength! Dori, our driver extraordinaire, has boundless energy. I admire his quick wit and easy laugh but marvelled at his athleticism as he bounded up all 362 steps of Saxhóll and waved to us resting one third of the way up! This crater, well within snaefellsjökul national park, offers a spectacular view of the surrounding area, complete with rust-coloured award-winning staircase, sundial and 360 panorama that takes your breath away. Next up was Skarðsvík, a hidden gem on the western most point of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. This quaint little spot offers a golden sandy beach with an excellent front row seat to the tides of the west coast. So beautiful!! When you think of Iceland, you often think of it`s mountains. Kirkjufell does NOT disappoint! Kirkjufell, or 'Church Mountain', is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location. (Yup, stole that right out of Guide to Iceland: https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/kirkjufell This beautiful peak is 463 metres high, a mere baby by Canadian standards, but resting on top of the ocean floor it is rather spectacular to see firsthand. Standing there, roadside, feels a bit like a religious experience...you know you are in the presence of something amazing. Bad weather started to creep into the day as we approached the fishing village of Stykkishólmur. Located in Breiðafjörður Bay, this village is surrounded by innumerable islands and offers a stunning harbour for fishing trawlers and a large fjord ferry alike. Here we stopped for the BEST seafood soup I have ever tasted! It warmed us to our toes after a day spent hiking around in the howling wind. With full bellies and an iPhone camera suffering from overuse we made our way back home. Thank you to our driver Dori and the in-flight service! ;O)
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AuthorAubrey: "Leader of the Elves"....that's me. Mom of two amazing guys, wife to one bigger (yet no less amazing) guy and teacher of little ones. Blogging about the adventures (usually with my rubber chicken in tow) is one of my favourite things. Archives
April 2019
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